At Last, We Made it to Margaret River!

The initial pull to Western Australia was never living in the tiny town of Williams. Try as we might, there is just not enough to keep us interested there for long. Many eyebrows have been raised when I tell new acquaintances where I work, as Narrogin has a formidable reputation as having a high rate of dysfunctional inhabitants, to put it bluntly. I have met many lovely people there, but it is not the place for us. Gina often sees the unsettling undercurrents of troubled youth in her high school and I teach some of their younger siblings. There is a good reason that staff here are paid very well for the risks and challenges they face. I don't get those extra "danger pay" benefits that Bec does, nor do I get paid her bonus for working at a relatively remote school. Hence our delight with grabbing every option to remove ourselves to urban or coastal destinations. It's just a lot more rewarding!
This weekend we are finally exploring the famed Margaret River wine region , where prices are sky high for accommodations that are booked up weeks in advance. We have scored 2 nights at a caravan park in Prevelly, on the ocean known for world class surfing and recent bush fires that scorched the area severely last year. Our campsite was spared, but I wish the less than pristine shower block had been torched. Ok, enough grousing! The area is mostly bucolic! We enjoyed warm sunshine and a rich verdant countryside for most of the 3 hour drive here. We saw forests, fields, and rolling hills full of sheep, many with springy new white lambs. We visited a delicious chocolate factory, where free samples proved the quality so good that we needed to purchase a few decadent morsels, as well. Naturally! Next came a cheese factory, where we were easily distracted by more tasty samples and purchases. Onwards to the town itself, where we spent time mapping our plan of attack for vineyards tomorrow and an hour shopping for essentials like socks & underthings. By 3 pm we succumbed to a late alfresco lunch on the patio of Settlers Pub, enjoying local wines and bites of locally produced breads, cheese, olives and seafoods. So impressive was our planning that we managed to park deck chairs on Surfer's Point to witness scores of dudes in wetsuits enjoy riding impressive waves, while the lacklustre sunset happened behind an annoying bank of clouds. We shall just have to try again tomorrow!
Night falls quickly here. We skipped dinner, content without. It is mostly quiet in the park, so we settled in very early to bed, to read and write. We are very glad to have our own wireless network with us wherever we go. Kees makes sure of that!

To Falcon Beach and Back

May 25-27 has been spent enjoying friends and fun at a borrowed beach house, just south of Mandurah. Chook and Phil Melvin, Bec's aunt and uncle, joined us from Perth. It was a delight to pay them back for their awesome hospitality shared in Seabird, when they hosted us some months ago. We also invited two exchange couples, Canadians Diane and Jim Hastie, posted to Perth, and Mike and Sue from England, posted in Busselton. We all got along very well, ate too much, drank lots of Phil and Chook's Prosecco and generally strengthened our friendships. The home was a delightful old place with a ton of shabby chic charm, lovingly decorated by my colleague at ENPS. We all felt quite lucky indeed, as the weather was a fine 25c and each meal, prepared by guests in rotation, was more delicious than the last. Mushroom bacon egg-a-muffins by Diane and Jim were followed by hot and cold meat and cheese wraps by Chook and Phil. Dinner by Mike and Sue was a very good chicken curry with a most excellent eggplant pickle and naan. Gina and I whipped up an apple crisp that had a hint of cinnamon, orange and coconut, served hot with ice cream. So yum!
Sunday breakfast was our version of fruit and pancakes, with maple syrup . Everyone got along so well all weekend that exercise was a bit neglected. We biked some, shopped some, beachcombed some and strolled the estuary trails some, but mostly we visited. Saturday eve was an amazing adventure to visit friends of Diane's, who owned a swanky holiday home and boat on the canal. We arrived to be ushered out onto their gorgeous waterfront deck, where we immediately spotted a frisky pod of energetic dolphins. Robin kept the hot appetizers and wine coming as Don ferried us in small groups out on the canals for a closer encounter. Very exciting! We certainly had a fabulous evening with our delightful new friends. Our fun ended all too soon. We ek ends are so full of interest, while the weeks are long and full of unending schoolwork. Gina had a few days off with a cold this past week, with low motivation to attend school. Kees may have entertained himself a bit too much, as he seems to be retiring to sleep some days even before I get home for dinner. Not fun. He did have a good day of it last Thursday, when he organized a seminar in town to teach Facebook and Social Media skills. He could do a lot more of that, if motivated. Everyone enjoyed that.
Play rehearsals are heating up. Gina has done some set painting and Kees will work the sound effects for a production I am in on June 8 & 9. I hope I remember my lines!! It has been a challenge, but I think the play is nearly ready for an audience.

Musings

I had a late rehearsal last Wednesday night for a repertory theatre production that I'm in. We practice every Monday and Wednesday night. I am enjoying the cameraderie of the cast and have managed to rope in Gina to do a bit of set painting and Kees to help as a sound tech. But I wonder, on a daily basis, why I am challenging myself to learn 20 pages of script and possibly embarrass myself right outta town. It is MUCH harder to memorize a script now than it seemed 35 years ago. Most days I can drill a few lines into my thick skull, but then I blank out when I add a few moves on stage... With less than a month to go until the play opens, I am doubting the wisdom of this endeavor! More practice is the thing for me.
I caught up again with the Numbutts Cycling Club on Saturday morning. We enjoyed a 30km bucolic ride over hill and dale, halfway to Quindanning, finally warmed by welcome rays after the fog cleared. It was a very chilly start at 8:30 am! We used to ride at 7:30, to miss the heat of the sun, but now it's fall here. Sunrise is at 7, barely warming up to a damp 5c this morning. It takes a good hour or more for the fog to burn off. By 10:30, it was a pleasant 20c. I had a chance to check out a new "op shop" in town of recycled things, where all the funds raised go to charities. It will be fun to return most of our stuff for resale when we leave here! Kees and Gina met me at the shop, then we headed over to the theater to paint sets. I had jelly legs and needed food, so managed to wobble 3km home to rest for the afternoon and study my lines. I'm thrilled that Gina and Kees have both volunteered to help with the play. Kees is the sound tech. Tomorrow, Gina will paint more sets and help prompt lines as the whole cast rehearses. This time it won't be their regular dinner theater, but simpler fare and of course, an open bar throughout the two one-act plays being performed. Soon! Eeeek!
Also heavy on my mind is the load of schoolwork mounting. Progress reports are looming next month and I must head in to the school for several hours tomorrow. I am finding it a somewhat stifling teaching situation overall, since so much focus here seems to be on a rigid, prescriptive style and loads of assessment. First term was about trying to adapt, but I'm not too keen on that anymore. I'm ready for teaching an inquiry project, but I'm being pushed to teach spelling drills and assign home reading worksheets. I haven't decided yet if I'll be a rebel or take the path of less resistance....ha! There's just never enough time to do everything needed in this job, so I may as well enjoy this great group of kids and do it my way. Those wiser than me tell me not to work so hard and be sure to put family first. Good advice.

Current Amazements

I cannot think of Erin in Thailand and Cora in Kenya, without marveling at what a huge change has taken place in our family in recent times. Short years ago we were a family under one roof, sharing life routines of work, home and school. Now we are on three continents. My iPhone World Clock app currently shows time zones for my extended family in Nairobi, Bangkok, Vancouver, Calgary, Perth and the Bahamas, mon! Last week, it included Miami as well. Our world is surely shrinking, as our views change. Isn't it also incredible that we can have free video calls with family in all of these places, simply by tapping a small keyboard on an interactive screen? Quite wonderful!
Furthermore, as I step out onto our bedroom balcony, I am bathed in the brightest white moonlight ever known to humankind, as the moon orbits closer than ever to our planet. It is a view shared by family and friends from Edmonton to Bali, Holland to Mexico. Lunar light bathes the nightscape with enough intensity to read by, or to inspire random musings of sleepless nocturnal beings.
Sounds of creatures I cannot name softly resonate on cool, still air, otherwise undisturbed. Then nothing: the night amazes with perfectly crisp, clear silence. The more intently I listen, the less I hear. Good night. Very, very good.

Pause to ponder

It is delicious to sleep in late, if that is what 7:30 am is. Gina had a bad night, with spider visits and minor hysterics, so Kees did a clean sweep of her room and I sat up to keep her company into the wee hours. It's not nice when crawlies march across your covers at night, lurk behind doors and hide in your shower. Tiny buggers have been taking advantage of our ceiling corners: unacceptable. I don't take much notice, but Gina's memory and imagination are both clear and bright. Good that we have a guest room for her to use as an alternate. Perhaps the rare downpour we had last night caused more Arachne activity through the night. Regardless, today Gina will clean her bedroom thoroughly.
Our life in Australia has many challenges, as well as charms. I enjoy the stunning sunrises and sunsets regularly, punctuated by chortling of magpies, squeaking of rosellas, expressive caws of crows and maniacal laughter of kookaburras, to name just the common few. The parrots are also quite expressive, answered by our sometimes visitor, Graybeck. He's Matt's cranky little cockatiel who's ornate cage dominates our stairwell. He's good at waking us by 7 am with his peals and chortles. Most of his attitude is directed at his reflection, but he's just as likely to nip at your fingers if you extend them in an offer of friendship or transport. Gina and Kees don't mind him perching on their shoulders, but I find his claws creepy and his crap unwelcome. I'm most fond of dogs, but Graybeck is pretty to look at. I'll give him that.
Well, back to pondering life. I have much to think about, planning and preparing for a second term of teaching. Progress reporting will dominate this term, once NAPLAN testing is done. I'll head in to work in my classroom later today, after studying my script for the Williams Repertory Theater's upcoming plays. I regret adding this stress to my agenda, as retention of 20 pages of script is a hard slog. It's a tougher challenge than I thought it would be, a clear reminder that my brain needs more exercise . So does my body! It felt exhilarating to climb atop the Gloucester Tree last week, used as a forest fire lookout near . But riding in a car, sitting at a computer and teaching in a classroom are three activities that do not exercise my muscles enough. Swimming laps has not yet become a regular part of my week, nor has weekly rides with the local Numbutts cycling club. Once a month rides are very hard on me, as I push to keep up with the fitness levels of tough Aussie farmers. I'd be fine on a one or two hour ride, but yesterday's 3 hour ride left me rather drained of energy, with jelly legs and an appropriate numb posterior. I hope to get Kees or Gina out today to limber up a bit. Quite a full day planned! Sunshine and a pleasant 24c forecast beckons. Onwards!

April Travels: two weeks of serious adventures

Kees and I plan differently. He likes to make sure all the "hardware" is ready, check engine, tires, gas and oil, get the sound system primed and hit the road. I'll pack details. I need maps, a change of clothes, sunscreen, a toothbrush, food for a couple of days. Kees? Not so much..... I like to check out what is written about an area, get a feel for a destination, maybe even make a reservation. Although it can make for a bit of friction, both styles have their strengths and blend into a wonderful holiday, with just enough strategy and luck to carry us to the next adventure.Yin and yang. Venus and Mars. Grump and giggle...Gina is so wise to pack her own bag, jump in and ride along until the dust settles, poor thing! Somehow, we manage.
Although a cold and flu bug hit me hard the week before Easter holidays,

I managed to remain vertical and help with some packing by Good Friday, departing by noon of April 7th. We trundled northeast to a large sheep farm where Jesse and Fleur Ford live, who are brother and sister-in-law of my exchange partner. The highway narrowed to a one lane road and threatened to become a gravel trail through outback before, to our relief, it widened again to decent hardtop. We had a bit of trouble finding the farm, only because our ears and Jesse's accent had not yet become accustomed to each other. Within hours of meeting, we figured things out much better.
There were some 4000 sheep and 25 rams to consider, thousands of acres of wheat and barley to be seeded, massive mysterious machinery to contemplate, yabbies to catch and eat, and a chicken coop to visit with scraps. The huge dark shearing shed, echoing busier times, needed a visit as well. Gina was invited to try driving the trusty rusty farm truck, but she shyly declined, shown up by a gaggle of very young farming cousins who zipped around on quad bikes, driving soon after learning to walk.
Sensory stimulation was certainly high, although not in any of the expected unpleasant ways. The country air was clear and fresh, rainwater sweet to drink, dirt roads clear and firm. It all felt so wholesome! Fresh eggs, Fleur's fancy basil pesto and herb dips with homemade breads, three friendly farm dogs who guarded their land and kept sheep in line, little Paisley toddling fearlessly ahead as we were introduced to the wonders of a working farm, impossibly brilliant stars overhead and a massive full moon..... Images that I hope won't fade from my mind too soon. Kees's photography skills will really help, as he whips up movies of our adventures so quickly! We thoroughly enjoyed meeting everyone, including Fleur's parents , Anne and Allan, over a delicious dinner in a charming old farmhouse, then had a solid sleep in our comfy van.
As promised, Allan returned the next morning with a fishing rod and bucket of tackle for us to borrow. That made Gina pretty eager to get to the coast!

We headed east to Wave Rock next, a very unusual formation with a beautiful walk nearby. It was well over 30C, but we managed with plenty of water and stops in the shade.
Next we headed due south to Esperance, through 400km of unremarkable scrub and crisp-dry land, which looked hardly suitable for livestock and wheat, but it was farmland. Not a roo in sight. It was after dark when we arrived in Esperance, in the middle of a long weekend, without reservations. We had an invite to use J. A.'s yard, as she was out of town, but her key wasn't where she said it would be! Campgrounds were all booked up, so we finally found the overflow site and crashed for the night. At least the local fish and chip shop was excellent!
Well rested, we had a lovely surprise the next morning when we could see the town in daylight. Breathtaking views! Aqua waters and snow white sands are characteristic of this area, tempting one to dive in, despite it being an area known to have many sharks. Fishing from the long town jetty is popular. Kees and Gina were happy here for days! They caught very little, enjoying every minute.
It was here that we crossed paths with my colleague, Lisa Nelson, as well as fellow exchangees, Sue and Mike Miles, at the Dome coffee shop. We finally did spend a night sharing J.A.'s place, after 2 nights at a gloriously gorgeous beachfront home of Lorraine and Allan Jones, but that's another story.

From Esperance we travelled east to Cape Le Grand National Park, Mesmerized by the amazingly perfect Lucky Bay, duke of Orleans Bay(Little Waldon Beach where we parked on granite rocks) , the hike to Thistle Cove, and the days spent points west of Esperance on the Great Ocean Drive, with cove after cove of achingly perfect beaches, all with crystal aqua water. I could write for a long while trying to describe spectacular Bremer Bay area, or the thunderous surf at our overnight stay at Cozy Corner Beach, but Kees and Gina's photos will speak volumes.  (Kees's photos on Facebook)
We had to move on, but could easily spend a lot more time enjoying the coastal magic of the southeastern edge of this continent.
Albany was a city we skipped through. Dinner at the Curry Leaf, their top rated Indian restaurant, was good. Rain pushed us on to points west, knowing that the rich experiences to be had in this area deserve more time. We loved a day around Denmark, found Rest Point and it's abundant bird life charming, and skipped most of the Walpole area completely, with the exception of 2 spots.

There was a pricy stop at a small Toffee Factory.... Then a large tree to climb (Gloucester Tree).
So many juicy details have been skipped over in an effort to keep up this chronicle that I wonder if I should bother. Brief notes don't suffice, as colorful memories will fade, but time is short for writing, stolen late at night or very early, before others rise. I must compromise quality for quick lists!

Adaptations

As I rest with head on pillow to avoid nausea, I have time to think. Lately, adaptations have changed me in ways I never really suspected. After 3 months away from familiar routines, sounds, tastes and sights, I am finally forced by a cold and flu bug to pause and consider.
We are on the verge of a 2 week break between Terms 1 and 2, but I rue the lost chance to celebrate this, as well as Easter events, tomorrow with my students. Their accents and odd phrases have ceased to puzzle me, most of the time. Vowel sounds are still a challenge to decipher, but my pause to process seems shorter, or at least better masked. I feel as though I don't stare with a dumbfounded look of incomprehension for as long as I used to, whenever addressed. Perhaps I'm wrong on this point, but I like to think I'm decoding phrases a bit better.
Sounds of majestic magpies on our tin roof no longer unnerve me, but I do still dislike their scratchy claws on metal. Semi trucks booming past at all hours of the day and night no longer startle me out of a deep sleep, despite their deep house-shaking rumble. I've been known to take quick advantage of their high-beams, like a sudden camera flash, to locate a lost pillow that has slipped from bed to floor, plump it with zeal and fall right back asleep. Even the kookaburra's raucous laughter at 5 am no longer snaps me fully awake. I just note it and slumber on for another hour or so, never needing any electronic buzz to begin my day. That's nice.
I do miss water. Dry air requires more use of moisturizers; no problem there, although I may appear to be aging more rapidly than when living in the cryogenic North. But really, I cannot adapt to a tiny shallow bathtub that barely allows water to cover thighs and will only allow one shoulder at a time to dip under. Rain so far has been little more that a rare misty breeze, but that can easily change. So far, all riverbeds seem to hold just a trickle or less, livestock dugouts hold no swimming appeal and the outdoor unheated pools are not worth admission. I do like the indoor pool, though, and find the filtered rainwater from our tap deliciously sweet to drink. Adapting to fresh grapes off the vines and luscious figs from our tree has also been delightful! I always appreciate the spicy fresh scent that various gum trees perfume the air with, particularly around our schoolyard. Very uplifting! Starry nights amaze with brilliance and multitudes, made truly awesome when accompanied by clear white moonlight. Living in the dustbrown country, with the chance to gaze at sungolden hills 10 kilometers away, over dark emerald trees holding cheeky green parrots and pink gallahs has a peaceful beauty that is easy to love. Kees loves the views, tranquility and isolation. He has unhindered independence each day to read, snooze or troll the 'net. If ambition overwhelms him, he does a spot of housework, mows the lawn or drives the 2 kms into town to check the mailbox.
Gina misses her friends and has not found any here as kind and accepting. I ache for her. She is coping with help of the Internet and reruns of Scrubs. Having her pal coming to visit us in July is a huge event for her to anticipate, so that helps her to cope.
I miss family, especially Cora and Erin. We are so proud of them! Seeing them here for a visit will be the best!
It's very hard to console friends or parents who have lost family members recently. It's been very hard to be so very far from my beloved pooch pal as he underwent the necessary amputation of a limb. I needed to cuddle him as much as I imagine he needed me, but he is adapting.
I think we are adapting well. Melancholy aside, there are many more adventures to investigate. Now to shake this bug and get exploring points south!